2.19.2012

Baking Perfection at Home

By Rick Welton


Though it's difficult, time consuming and stinky to make, the sourdough loaf, once its made, is highly sought after. Its tart flavour goes perfectly with a good, fontina cheese fondue, meat stew, or a hearty winter soup. A slice of bread topped by an oyster scooped from oyster bisque is delicious. Sourdough bread is perfection served with a drip of good, extra virgin olive oil and a dusting of fleur de sal, its sourness mixing sublimely with the oil's sweetness and the salt's pelagic taste.

Nobody truly knows who was the first cook to discover that milk and sugar left out for days and days could go into making a flavorsome and healthy bread. It's possible that sourdough, like so many other deserving things, traces its beginnings back to traditional Egypt. It was possibly one of those happy culinary accidents that humanity would be poorer for had it not happened.

Sour Dough Bread gets its singular taste from the lactic acid from the lactobacillus cultures found from the sour milk that helps leaven it. Academics have written articles on the convoluted chemistry that goes into making a perfect loaf.

The way sourdough loaf was produced was the predominant way to make bread till the Middle ages, when bread began to be leavened with barm, then with yeast. Barm is the foam skimmed from the top of lager during its fermentation process. This too was confirmed to help bread to rise was possibly also a very content accident. People still use barm to make bread rolls.

But the substitution of yeast wasn't enough to cause the sourdough loaf to be abandoned altogether, fiddly as it is to make. Many bread lovers claim that the best tasting, and by some accounts, sourest, sourdough loaves can be purchased in San Francisco. The tradition of making glorious sourdough started in the 1849 Gold Rush in that part of the state. For prospectors, men mostly without girls, it was better to keep sourdough starter than baker's yeast. Sourdough baking in the San Francisco area, indeed, has been going on uninterrupted since 1849.

The sourdough loaf is here to stay, and good for all food lovers everywhere!




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